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reefphilippines.com • View topic - water changes

water changes

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Postby Fugu » Fri Oct 21, 2005 10:52 am

Frequent Partial Water change:
Taken from: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water.htm

Probably the most important aspect of maintenance a keeper of an aquatic system can do to optimize water quality and health of their charges is to change some of the water is a regular basis. This Section deals with the reasons for, and some rules of thumb as to how often, how much and how to make these changes.

Rationale:
There are several major benefits of frequent partial water changes: Dilution of nutrient, removal of particulate matter, reduction in microbial populations and their metabolites. Results anticipated are faster, more vigorous growth, reduced algae growth, color and odor.

It has been written in many fisheries, limnological and hobbyist texts that along with temperature and photoperiod, metabolite ("wastes") build-up is one of the three most important factors influencing the health, growth and reproduction of livestoc.

More specifically; in the trade, ammonia and other nitrogenous wastes are recognized as the number one killer of aquatic life in captive conditions. Not to say that all the "stuff" produced by the system's desireable life is toxic. Some metabolites, like pheromones, are actually known to have calming effects. Therefore the concept of partial, not total water changes.

In doing these water changes we are interested in a dilution-solution; that is, keeping these so-called waste products at tolerable levels.

There are several ways this is otherwise accomplished. Most common are some forms of biological filtration and chemical filtration like carbon and ion-exchange materials. The last are useful but often labor and money intensive. Moreover, these chemical filtrants do remove desirable chemicals as well.

As stated in so many previous Sections it is imperative vital that as much extraneous materials: foods, dirt from decor, material from the immediate outside environment be kept from getting in the system. What little does make its way in should be removed by netting/vacuuming, diluted or removed by making partial water changes.

Some potential pollution will probably be added to your system in the way of food and chemical additives/fertilizer. Even without over- or mis- feeding and/or fertilizing, freshwater evaporation adds to a decided negative chemical effect on an aquatic system. This "Salton Sea Syndrome" occurs as water evaporates leaving behind its' chemical constituents.

So enough of the reasoning for making water changes; onto the nuts and bolts of how to do them:

How often:

Depending on your pump/filter/circulation system, stocking and feeding regimen et al., partial water changes about once a week to about once a month are about right. More frequent smaller amounts are better than infrequent mega-changes, with one possible exception. Some writers advocate an occasional massive change (50% or more) as a stop-gap measure to dilute metabolites, nitrates in particular. I'd rather encourage you to stick to regular, smaller volume changes; they're safer and accomplish about the same ends.

Make a schedule/notebook for your system and keep track of what you do and how it works for you. Patterns will emerge and give you a guideline for how frequent you should change water.

How much:

Five to ten percent for larger systems and twice that for smaller is generally sufficient. The chemical/physical/biological shock from changing too much too soon is to be avoided.

Though some marine authors state that water treatment chemicals are unwarranted with such frequent small percentage change, I'd encourage you "to be safe, rather than sorry", and treat to remove chlorine/choramine unless you're preparing water a week or more in advance of use.

How to:

However it is achieved, the part of the water and what's dissolved in it are mainly to be found at and in the bottom.

Solids are systematically removed from part, but never all of the bottom of the tank and possibly sump by using a "gravel vacuum". We don't want to vent all the beneficial microbes along with the solids, so a plan is made to move the decor and vacuum a half, third, what have you, of the base in a given water change period.

New water is replaced with pre-mixed synthetic of similar temperature and specific gravity.

Summary:

Regardless of how well a system is designed and constructed, there will always be maintenance. Frequent partial water changes are one of the best ways of ensuring continuing success.

There are manufacturers who claim their products do away with the need for frequent partial water changes. Their products may well extend the amount of time between changing or ostensibly eliminate it, but at what economic cost?

With the proper tools and materials, water changes are a breeze. Water changing is the cheapest, easiest, most sure method of diluting wastes and replenishing buffering capacity, "trace materials", while concurrently cleaning the system of undesirable solids and liquids.

Happy reading :wink:
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Postby docbrian » Fri Oct 21, 2005 11:28 am

hi everybody,

Water change should not be a problem for saltwater aquarium. Too frequent water change can dilute your good batceria specially if you siphon near your substrate/sand. Less frequent water change on the other hand can elevate your waste products in your water even with the best skimmer/denitrator or whatever stuff you have. All of us have read about water change. From my own experience which I would like to share is dependent upon the inhabitants you have and how often you feed. the no. 1 cause of water pollution is too much feeding. i would suggest you feed small frequent amount (meaning the fish consumes it in 30 secs to 1 minute). lLiterature says, we should feed at an amount that the fish will consume it in 3-5 mins. I don't agree with that 'coz in that way you already dissolved some of the food in the water in which could not eat it anymore. Mas ok pag medyo gutom ng kaunti yung fish. Wag busug masyado. The more food you give the more waste you have the higher the nitrates will be. Also, I use saltmix from DA. Its comparable with the no. 1 brand in the U.S. and Europe (I've tried a lot 'coz my brother is a pilot for PAL). I would say change water every 3 weeks at most tapus pag medyo mataas yung nitrates every 2 weeks. Mga 30% maximum change lang. I noticed in my tank if I change too often my fishes develops Ich. Ich is always a signal for stress for me kasi hindi naman ako nagdadagdag ng fish and I use saltmix. On the other hand pag more than a month naman matamlay sila and not very bright colors. But for reef keepers merun na saltmix
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1 Hawaiian yellow Tang
1 Powder Gray Tang
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Postby docbrian » Fri Oct 21, 2005 11:31 am

hi everybody,

but for reef keepers I have seen saltmix na for reef as long as you have calcium reactor. I was in h.k. the other week and I studied their system more or less parehas na sa atin. I'm not so sure with reef keeping stuff but for Fish-Only tanks I can more or less be of help.
happy Fishkeeping Day.
200 Gallon Fish-Only Tank with Fiberglass Synthetic Corrals From Direct Aquatic
1 Powder Blue Tang
1 Hawaiian yellow Tang
1 Powder Gray Tang
1 Tear Drop Butterfly
1 Lineatus Tang
1 Orange Shoulder Tang
1 Mimic Tang
1 6 Bar Angel
1 Heniochus Butterfly
1 Red V-Tail Grouper
1 Blue Tang
2 Lip Stick Tang
1 Reticulated Angel
1 Convict Tang
1 Clown Fish
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Postby jolt26 » Fri Oct 21, 2005 11:40 am

hi again doc!

problem with our locally available saltmix is, di sya complete. calcium is one thing. trace, volatile minerals is another. plus, fresh natural seawater has microfauna, something saltmix can never have. fugu uses saltmix, but it is far better than the ones we have here, for sure. plus, he cultures phytoplanktons, na wala akong kilalang gumagawa sa pinas. i tried to get the materials thru the net, they wont ship outside US, tapos mahal pa.
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Postby docbrian » Fri Oct 21, 2005 11:50 am

hi too jolt,

yes alam ko yung ibig mu sabihin. for fish only tank walang problema yung microfauna but for reef alam ko kailangan talaga yun. In h.k. merun sila pang culture ng microfauna. I saw it galing ng system pero its around $9,000 H.K.
200 Gallon Fish-Only Tank with Fiberglass Synthetic Corrals From Direct Aquatic
1 Powder Blue Tang
1 Hawaiian yellow Tang
1 Powder Gray Tang
1 Tear Drop Butterfly
1 Lineatus Tang
1 Orange Shoulder Tang
1 Mimic Tang
1 6 Bar Angel
1 Heniochus Butterfly
1 Red V-Tail Grouper
1 Blue Tang
2 Lip Stick Tang
1 Reticulated Angel
1 Convict Tang
1 Clown Fish
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Postby jolt26 » Fri Oct 21, 2005 11:55 am

yaiks :shock:

yun na nga. pero yung nakita ko sa net, di naman ganun kamahal :)

btw, post ka dun sa "your personal info." baka may kailangan dito ng duktor :)
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Postby docbrian » Fri Oct 21, 2005 11:58 am

ok thank you.
200 Gallon Fish-Only Tank with Fiberglass Synthetic Corrals From Direct Aquatic
1 Powder Blue Tang
1 Hawaiian yellow Tang
1 Powder Gray Tang
1 Tear Drop Butterfly
1 Lineatus Tang
1 Orange Shoulder Tang
1 Mimic Tang
1 6 Bar Angel
1 Heniochus Butterfly
1 Red V-Tail Grouper
1 Blue Tang
2 Lip Stick Tang
1 Reticulated Angel
1 Convict Tang
1 Clown Fish
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Postby Hfx » Fri Oct 21, 2005 1:22 pm

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Postby Fugu » Fri Oct 21, 2005 1:41 pm

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Postby jolt26 » Fri Oct 21, 2005 1:48 pm

Welcome to ReefPhilippines!
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Postby chonglai » Fri Oct 21, 2005 3:25 pm

a very lifeless and empty 180 gal tank and a dead 75gal sump.
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Postby wax_static » Fri Oct 21, 2005 3:45 pm

100gal reef? w/ inline
and 75gal sump w/ plenum, , DIY Sulfur deni, Atman UV sterilizer

20gal reef w/ 15gal sump/fuge, skimmerless
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Postby jolt26 » Fri Oct 21, 2005 4:49 pm

Welcome to ReefPhilippines!
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Postby Fugu » Fri Oct 21, 2005 6:23 pm

Yeah, no problem with the kit. I'll just ask for a culture na lang from everyone when I go home.
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Postby apol » Fri Oct 21, 2005 7:15 pm

sali ako dyan ha.
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