Chiller-less Cooling

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Postby obet_carlos » Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:20 am

try to look for the higher ampere rating dc fan..:D mas mataas ang amps, mas malakas ang fan.. size does not really matter much..
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Postby dahcmed » Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:47 am

Sir Obet, Sorry to disagree on some points.

Well, generally, higher wattage, higher cfm, but not always the case. There are models for Zalman and thermaltake, that have low wattage, but puts out more than with models with higher wattage.

And size might not matter much between close measurements, but it really does. The bigger the diameter/size, the higher the cfm it puts out at the same rating.

If you want strong ones, get Panaflo, Everflow, Sanyo, Sunon, Thermaltake, Aerocool (forgot the other ones). If you want silent ones (but costly), Zalman, Silverstone, etc.

I don't mean to complicate things, but you do have to be selective, instead of buying it now, and later realize you can't withstand the noise humming :) and when you lower the voltage to kill the noise, you can't get the desired fan output.
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Postby jackryan » Sun Apr 20, 2008 10:56 am

I agree with you Dahcmed... I know that for PC modders, certain fan brands and models are popular for being lower wattage, low noise and yet deliver much airflow... the only other consideration would be cost and for some the size selections... good point on that one...
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Postby obet_carlos » Mon Apr 21, 2008 7:53 am

im not really particular on the brand..:D
i made that statement from the fact that my 4" 0.32A dc fan is stronger than my 6" 0.18A fan.. and that more current and/or more turns on the motor, more electromagnetic force, higher rpm and torque..:D
so, we expect to have a faster fan (rpm) if the rated current is higher.. if not, pangit yung fan niyo..:D hehehe!
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Postby dahcmed » Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:46 am

obet_carlos wrote:im not really particular on the brand..:D
i made that statement from the fact that my 4" 0.32A dc fan is stronger than my 6" 0.18A fan.. and that more current and/or more turns on the motor, more electromagnetic force, higher rpm and torque..:D
so, we expect to have a faster fan (rpm) if the rated current is higher.. if not, pangit yung fan niyo..:D hehehe!


That's true. The more windings, the greater the electromag force. But it's not always about torque. There are other factors, there are so many designs in terms of the bearings used - sleeve bearing, fluid, etc. Even the design and number of blades that are used with regards to the wattage. This is why some manufacturers were able to use less wattage and still higher cfm.

That's why I posted those brands that have been used and tested by many already, including myself. I even replaced 2 0.56A 25mm fans with a single 0.32A 250mm, as it was more efficient in cooling my motherboard :) Dinikit ko nga yung mukha ko dun sa fan :lol: you'll feel more force dun sa 2 25mm fans than the 250mm, but it seems that the slow 250mm moves more air. Am no expert in thermo/aerodynamics, so I can't explain why. :)

I've thrown away a lot of DC fans, either due to noise or poor performance. I've thrown away 2 of them to the aquarium :lol: now my aquarium is making more noise than my PC :lol:

It's also interesting to note, an 80mm fan that can deliver the same cfm as a 120mm fan, will make 2x more noise :)
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Postby nanokiper » Tue Apr 22, 2008 6:01 pm

manmarine wrote:
ishtiki wrote:not sure sir... if it looks the same and the size is the same... i guess pareho lang :D

sobrang lakas, sobrang ok, sobrang ingay lang talaga :lol:


i bought one before na hindi 220V version tapos bumili din ako ng 220V. when i compared it, mas nalalakasan ako sa 220v version so i ended up using them instead. :)


AC fan has higher power consumption than DC fan plus risk of electrocution. :(
45 Gallon Rimless Tank
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http://reefphilippines.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2169
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Postby pong » Tue May 06, 2008 12:57 pm

has anyone tried this...

the concept is like how cars reduce water temperature,
hot water comes into the radiator, water is cooled by fans...
fins of the radiator acts as heat sinks...

in the case for the aquarium, we could put a whole block of ice on top of the radiator itself and in essence, the radiator will act as a chiller of some
sorts...

most of the radiators are made of aluminum... is this bad for reef tanks?
i dont know if copper is included but will have to check for sure...

output water is colder...
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Postby jackryan » Tue May 06, 2008 4:58 pm

anthony has done a modified version of it but the general operating principles are the same, I guess...
JackRyan's 225G 6'x2'x2.5' Tank Project

* RO (DDNW-150-6530 2pumps) + ORP
* Teco TR20 + 2x MaxSpect 160w LEDs + Vin's Cab+Sump *
* 2x Vortech MP40W + RKE + FS-WaveBox + 3xTunze Pumps on 2x 7095's + HF20 *
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Postby pong » Tue May 06, 2008 6:26 pm

how effective is it?
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Postby thetaz_70 » Tue May 06, 2008 9:08 pm

was wondering if anyone does sell any chillers here in the philippines......
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Postby dahcmed » Tue May 06, 2008 9:12 pm

pong wrote:has anyone tried this...

the concept is like how cars reduce water temperature,
hot water comes into the radiator, water is cooled by fans...
fins of the radiator acts as heat sinks...

in the case for the aquarium, we could put a whole block of ice on top of the radiator itself and in essence, the radiator will act as a chiller of some
sorts...

most of the radiators are made of aluminum... is this bad for reef tanks?
i dont know if copper is included but will have to check for sure...

output water is colder...


I think this was discussed in the earlier posts. Same radiator technology is being used in PC Cooling. I read somewhere that Aluminum is toxic to the reef, titanium is the best for reef cooling, but quite pricey. I think one of the sponsors here have that product.
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Postby lisa_mae » Tue Jul 08, 2008 2:16 pm

i worked in a team that had a very promising project a few years back, this is to cool SM ILOILO without the use of chillers. the plan is realistic.

SM is located near the a deep part of the sea, if they will drill a tunnel below the SM and into the sea with 2 megapipes, it will circulate the water from sea-to-sm-to-sea. this is so true because the water at the deeper part of the sea is cold, so no need for chillers, just megapumps.

applying this to a 200gals aquarium, we can create a sump made of cement, in your dream-ataul-size, underground, pump, and violah, instant cold water. you can even create 2 medium size pumps connected by 3" pipe probably end to end of your house one for overflow one for return.

more adventure? then cool your entire house ising this method.
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Postby jackryan » Tue Jul 08, 2008 2:47 pm

if you notice, cistern like chambers in the old Cartimar were helpful in keeping their display / holding tanks run cool... i presume this is almost similar functionality.

The only consideration is the amount of energy to power up those pumps if one really goes deeper and the volume of seawater is significant... you also have to factor in effect around the fresh water aquifiers as you do not want salt water to seep into your freshwater deep well aquifiers...
JackRyan's 225G 6'x2'x2.5' Tank Project

* RO (DDNW-150-6530 2pumps) + ORP
* Teco TR20 + 2x MaxSpect 160w LEDs + Vin's Cab+Sump *
* 2x Vortech MP40W + RKE + FS-WaveBox + 3xTunze Pumps on 2x 7095's + HF20 *
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Postby naivete » Tue Oct 21, 2008 11:09 pm

Hi! I am wondering were I can purchase an AC DC adapter or transformer? How many fans can I use for one adapter or transformer?

I read some of those selling the fans thermaltake that it actually cut off your fingers because of the really high RPM. kinda scary.
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Postby naivete » Fri Oct 24, 2008 12:26 am

Hey Guys! just wondering if it is more practical to just buy a 350Wats PC power supply since its more accessible to buy than a AC DC adapter or transformer.

I dont know the mechanics of a power supply and would like to be enlightened. if I have a 350Wats power supply and have only a total of 20 wats of PC fans, how much electricity/power am i using? the whole 350Wats or just 20 wats?
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